Trocha historie

Škrovád – tak jak ho viděl „Delfa“ v ročence 1989

„Škrovád – populárna tréningová oblasť východočeských horolezcov, bývalý pieskovcový lom pri Slatiňanoch, (na trati Pardubice-Havlíčkův Brod). Na 10 až 20 metrových stienkách je vari najťažšie stenové lezenie v Čechách.“

Škrovád - pardubické stěnky

 Tyto úvodní věty si můžete přečíst v nové Dieškově horolezecké encyklopedii pod písmenem „Š“. Myslím si, že poslední věta od Ivana Diešky je pro naše malé skály až příliš lichotivá. Přesto Škrovád byl a je pojem (pěkné lezení + dobré pivo). Pro neznalé něco blíže.

Skály jsou rozmístěné po obou březích řeky Chrudimky v souvislých masívech. Leze se více na levém břehu, který je snadněji přístupný. Cesty jsou osazeny kruhy podle pravidel pískovcového lezení. Vzhledem k výšce mají většinou jeden nebo žádný kruh. Vyjímkou je současná nejtěžší cesta na Škrovádě: „Moucha na zdi“ od mladého Marcela Tomana. Původní skoby a nýty bývalé skobovačky jsou nahrazeny čtyřmi pískovcovými kruhy. Marcel cestu vylezl v roce 1988 srylem AF. Letos v červnu (rok 1989) cestu vylezl RP a dle odborníků má hodnotu 9+ až 10- UIAA. Nástup začíná střechovitým převisem a po traverzu doprava následuje klíčový úsek okolo druhého kruhu. Celá cesta je převislá a jsou v ním velmi malé a pevné chyty.

Za zmínku stojí varianta „Biolit“ od prvního kruhu po levé hraně ke kruhu cesty „Letecká“. Další pěkný extrémní výstup je „Cesta trhlinkou“ na malou kazatelnu. O něco snadnější je varianta nástupu cesty „Chlupaté království“, která umožňuje jeho čisté přelezení. Velmi pěknou a poměrně často lezenou cestou je tzv. „Sporná cesta“, kde byl Jardovi Stráníkovi vytlučen kruh. Marcel cestu vylezl na sólo a kruh na jištění dodatečně osadil.

Lahůdkou pro všechny se stal první prvovýstup Honzy Vrbaty „Pižmoňovo pšouknutí“ VI. Další těžké cesty jako je „Makový panáček“, „Žádný problém“, „Kolerovka“, „Co je dovoleno bohovi“, „Hnojní“ a další mají všechny RP přelez. Jejich obtížnost se pohybuje okolo 9a-9c (klas. NDR). První je zdolal Jirka Slavík.

Škrovád - Martin Doucha na Sokolíkách

Oblíbenou zábavou a dobrým tréningem je ve škrovádě bouldering. „Vysoké napětí“, „Zhola nic“ a jiné krátké, velmi těžké cesty mají mnoho pokusů než se chlapcům podaří zvítězit nad gravitací

Copyright © 2003, 2011 Škrovád – horolezecký oddíl

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